You may remember that a while back I reviewed a white Zinfandel made by Beringer in Napa Valley, California. This article reviews another California white Zinfandel, a kosher one made by Baron Herzog. Zinfandel is perhaps America's only indigenous European-style grape variety. It is the source of fruity, powerful red wines. But it is also transformed into White Zinfandel, an extremely popular rose wine accounting for about one wine bottle in ten sold in the United States. Approximately six out of seven Zinfandel bottles are white or should I say rose? Are they onto something?

Philip Herzog made wine in Slovakia for the Austro-Hungarian court well over a century ago. Emperor Franz-Joseph liked his products so much that he named Philip a Baron. After World War II grandson Eugene and family came to the United States. For years Eugene produced Concord-style sweet wines in a Brooklyn basement and drove a wine delivery truck. About a decade later the Herzogs founded Royal Wine, which has become the largest producer, importer, and distributor of kosher wines and spirits in the world.

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review have been purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Baron Herzog White Zinfandel 2007 10.0% alcohol about $10

Let's start by quoting the marketing materials. Description: Attractive light pink color. The prime aromas are strawberry/rhubarb pie and red cherry. Just a bit sweet with balancing citrus tones. Light bodied, refreshing wine for mildly pungent cheeses or spicy seafood dishes. And now for my reactions.

At the first sips the wine tasted of strawberries and showed good acidity. It was a little sweet and short. Its first pairing was with zucchini stuffed with ground meat, accompanied by stewed potatoes and carrots. The wine became more intense with the meat and too sweet with the vegetables. Slices of yellow watermelon made the wine taste like candy, slightly acidic candy.

The next meal consisted of an Asiago cheese omelet accompanied by pesto. This time I felt I was drinking strawberry candy, a sort of cotton candy. The pesto cut the sugar and increased the wine's length. Dessert was a high-quality French style lemon pie with a very buttery crust. On the positive side the wine was slightly lemony. But the downside was that it still tasted like candy.

My final meal was centered around commercially barbecued chicken. When paired with the wings that bathed in a sweet and sour sauce, raspberry came to the fore. Then came the boiled beets. The Zin became more acidic; I was frankly surprised that this liquid paired better with boiled beets than with chicken wings, or in fact than with anything else. I finished the meal with paprika dusted barbecued chicken thighs. The wine dropped backed in acidity.

I ended the bottle with two local cheeses. A Gouda cheese partially tamed the wine's sweetness. It was sweet but not candy, and really was quite pleasant. A Swiss led to a repeat performance but the Zin increased in body.

Final verdict. If you are looking for a wine to accompany boiled beets or cheese this might be a fine choice. Otherwise, I find it way too sweet. This liquid candy might well represent a step forward for those trying to go beyond traditional Concord-based kosher wine. You won't have trouble finding it on the Internet for somewhat less than the price quoted above.